More than just a lube job .. I also changed the PVT belt,
disassembled the driven clutch and replaced the ramp buttons, and
performed other general maintenance.
I have indicated prices of some parts in here.
These are the prices that I paid, and may not reflect the current price.
This is just to give you an idea of about how much money you can expect to spend.
Also, by buying parts at the dealership where I purchased the ATV,
I get the "discount" price.
If you're going to work on your own ATV, here are some important notes:
2. Remove the plastic body panels as needed. I know, it's hard to get past that mental block the first time (I'm tearing up my machine!).. but you'll get used to it, and it makes the work much easier; and after a couple of times, it also gets easier to remove & replace those side panels. Some procedures are impossible with the body panels on.
3. When you lube the machine, put it on jackstands (or an atv lift if you own one). Remove the wheels. Wipe the dirt & old grease off of all the fittings; this makes it easier find them, and prevents you from pushing the dirt into the fittings when you pump the new grease in. Grease everything. Go back around and wipe off all the excess grease; this is the step where you usually discover you missed a couple!
4. Never work on the machine when you are in a hurry! Take your time, and expect to get dirty.
I apologize for the quality of some of these pictures. I'll add to or replace some of these photos later. Some of these are too dark to see the detail I wanted to show, but the flash on this camera is too bright for anything less than 6 feet away. I'll have to experiment with other "fill" lights.
Click on the photo for more detail.
Above the terminal board, just below the headlight pod .. is a grease fitting for the steering column! I missed this one until I bought & read the shop manual.
There is another hard-to-find grease fitting near the bottom of the steering column, too
I used a carpenter's level for a straight-edge to measure belt deflection. It's a tight fit, but it works. With the straight edge laying on the belt, press down on the belt midway between the pulleys. I use a machinist ruler (not shown) to measure belt deflection.
Belt deflection should be between 1 1/8" and 1 1/4"
You want to press just hard enough to measure belt deflection (the manual says "push down on the drive belt until it is lightly tensioned"). If you push down too hard, you will spread the sheaves and your measurement will be way off.
Adjustment is by adding or removing shims.
This note is quoted from the Polaris manual:
Measure belt width across the top of the belt (outer edges) with a dial caliper. Width should be 1.88" (new); wear limit is 1.125". If it is less than 1.125", get a new belt - this one will ride too low in the groove.
OK, more stuff straight from the book:
BTW - if you have the driven clutch apart to get to the spacers, check the ramp buttons and the "Moveable Sheave Bushing". Replace the bushing if more brass than Teflon® is visible in the bushing. For a roller clutch setup, ramp buttons are eliminated (or so I've heard).
Twist your neck .. I'll rotate the photo later. ;)
Yes, the grease is green. This is Amsoil Synthetic Water Resistant Grease
The best access to grease the front u-joint on the front drive shaft is from the bottom, through the hole in the skid plate.
The spark plug is back in there - not as hard to get to as it looks. A telescoping magnet makes it easy to get the plug out of the hole.
Everything is easier to get to if you remove the plastic body panels
Part of my "routine maintenance" .. pound out the dents in the wheels. The Sportsman 500 is a bit wider than most ATVs .. and their trails!
The book says to remove this plug and start up the engine to blow out any accumulation of soot from the muffler. I recommend that you start early and do it regularly. If you wait (like I did) it gets real hard to get the plug out because of the buildup of carbon in the threads that extend inside the muffler. I'm considering grinding off the "dirty" threads .. I figure anything protruding into the exhaust flow is an exhaust restriction. Comments?
I disassembled the driven clutch. Notice the "ramp button" has a crack on the left side and is badly worn on the right side
According to the dealer, this is "expected" .. replace them when you change PVT belt.
price for the buttons is $1.50 each and you need 3; discount price (because I purchased my ATV there) is $1.21
